Lands without McDonalds

At the beach at the beach......

2009-05-18T09:46:00.006-04:00

As a kid, I never had the annual family vacation that many do. My friend Tiffany still goes to the same mountain resort, the same week of the year, to simultaneously unwind and recharge. Every year I hear about the bingo games, who had to share what cabin, and you won the dart tournament. And even though I've always prided myself on being the sort of person that doesn't get attached to one particular place, (Home is within, wanderlust and all that jazz) I have always been just a tad jealous of the annual retreat. The idea of returning to a place that isn't home, but still familiar, must be wonderfully comforting. The rituals associated with getting ready for what is guaranteed to be a good time, regardless of weather, traffic or other minor mishap that's bound to occur seem natural and necessary to the human spirit.

This memorial day will mark my third trip to Destin, Florida. I will drive 6.5 hours. The night before I will throw shorts, t-shirts, swim suit and some undies into a bag. I will make a last minute trip to Wal-mart--a store I only go to in preparation for this trip for last minute food, sunblock and flip-flops. I will leave Savannah later than I initially planned. I will be amazed that the orange road construction barrels still stand sentry on the way to Jacksonville, but no progress to the road has been made. I will curse how long Florida is (both in width and length). I will pass the building in Tallahassee that reminds me of a Duracell battery and I will think "almost there!" even though is at least 2 more hours of driving. I will drive over the bridge, pass the permanently docked shrimp boat, and drive right by our condos and need to turn back around. I will find a key under the mat, grab a beer from the fridge and head down to the beach--Terri's white tent will be a straight shot from the gate. I will say my hellos, settle in and remark that I can't believe how green the water is, how soft the sand feels. Someone will tell me that they call this part of Florida the emerald coast. Terri will make sure I have applied sunscreen, but I will burn anyway. Our only plans for the next three days will be, whose turn is it to make the 5 o'clock mudslides and who is making dinner.

And somewhere, sometime---I will realize that I have my family vacation.

Mardi Gras 2009

2009-03-05T10:11:00.006-05:00

After years of visiting, yet managing to avoid any major festival, I headed out to Terri's to take in Mardi Gras. A part of me has always wanted to go, but in truth, there has been another part of me that has been kind of proud that I had successfully dodged a tourist trap and experienced "real" southern Louisiana by visiting outside of carnival season. I knew Mardi Gras was supposed to be fun. Hedonistic, boozy bleary fun. But I was afraid that if would feel too manufactured. And there is nothing worse than structured fun, major festival or not.

Thankfully, I was so wrong. Mardi Gras is every great thing you'd expect; vibrant colors, great music, cold drinks and numerous throws. Better yet, Mardi Gras has a lot to offer that you (or me at least) would have never anticipated; incredible floats, friendly people, family/friend tailgates and kid friendly parades.

2010--The Next Odyssey

2008-11-11T08:11:00.005-05:00

Terri isn't aware (yet) that I am keeping this blog going, but seeing as I apparently proved up in travel buddy department, I believe the new plan is this:

There will be no inheritance for me (there was an inheritance for me?)

Any money will be better spent on once every other year trips to far flung places

My job is to plan; make half ass attempts at learning the language

Step-momma pays for fare, food and feather bed (or cot, mat, hammock--depending on where we might be).

The 2010 trip has been pinned down to 2 places, Scotland or Ecuador/Galapagos Islands. Both of us have been wanting to see Scotland for a while, but I think that there is a mutual feeling of visiting more adventurous (and McDonald-less) places while we are still both young (relatively) and healthy (in theory). Anyway, research will commence and live here for Terri to peruse and make the final decision, as I am just along for the ride......

Anyone out there leaning towards one country over the other? If so why?

Our Trip home

2008-07-22T09:41:00.006-04:00

For anyone that may still be reading this---we arrived safely home after a long series of flights early Saturday Morning. Finally clear of jetlag--let me share our final adventure with you----at least our final adventure this trip.

About 30 minutes into our flight from UB to Moscow, we were told we had to turn back due to a technical problem with the plane. We landed safely, but were delayed by about 8 hours. (MIAT air apparently doesn't have a lot of spare planes hanging around---so this one had to get fixed.)

We arrived in Moscow about 8 pm and were put up, by MIAT I assume, in a "hotel". Although the front of the hotel seemingly just that, with all your hotel trappings (lobby, restaurant, business center etc) we didn't have the opportunity to actually see or use any of these things. Being without an official visa, we were escorted by security to a back entrance of the hotel. Surrenduring our tickets and passports we were then led up to the 5th floor, and locked in.

The the hallway and room had a decidedly less "modern Russian" and more Soviet atmosphere. I spent some of the evening with other detainees (other poor souls with broken and delayed planes) in the hallway, which I nicknamed the exercise yard. To the family from France, the guy from Egypt trying to let his family know where he was, our Turkish "guide" who had experienced this same thing, in the same hotel, just a few weeks ago and to the father and son from Holland trying to get to Thailand---I hope you all reached your destinations safe and sound.

No food that night--but a lady with a cart and a bucket(!) of porridge came in the morning. And hour or so later---security came again (tall, dour looking men in black suits and smoking---guess former KGB agents need work too!) returned our passports and took us back to the airport.

This was all mildly unsettling at the time---but mostly funny--in that weary I can't believe this is actually happening kind of way. Now that I'm home safe and sound--I have to admit, the traveller in me LOVED that it happened, it makes for such a great story : )

Why I went to Mongolia.

2008-07-20T12:57:00.002-04:00

For most part when I told people I was going to Mongolia the response was “why Mongolia?” And I would respond “there are no McDonalds in Mongolia”, not that I have anything against McDonald.

I wanted to experience and visit a culture of people who have learned to live in extreme cold and desert heat, who learned to adapt and survive, and utilize every thing at hand to the fullest, and some still do today. To visit a culture still fighting to become their own, a people who conquered many and have been conquered by several.

Although, Mongolia is stepping up to become like the remaining, high-tech, industrialized countries, I was not disappointed. The people are friendly, hospitable and for most part still have that old fashion; welcome stranger can I help you.

With most of the younger generation going away to college and learning new easier ways of living, the life as a nomad herder moving each season to greener pastures has fallen to a small percentage of the Mongols living in the county.

Only the city has paved roads the country side is still fill of dirt paths worn by horses, Russian motorbike and jeeps. You can drive for miles and see nothing but nothing, but then, you see the ger, the herd, the family working and I knew this is the Mongolia I have dreamed of.

Terri

Stuck in UB

2008-07-17T02:13:00.003-04:00

Well, we took off on time at 8:20 am this morning but after about 30 minutes in the air...we were told there was a problem with the plane and we had to turn back. It is now 2:16 pm local time and we are keeping our fingers crossed for a 4:00 pm departure....but given we were told that at 11:00 am and 1:00 we are not super confident. For all of you that may be paying attention to when we were supposed to be back (the evening of the 17th) it is looking like we will be spending the night in the Moscow airport and we will be getting home sometime on the 18th.

Keep us in your thoughts for safe travels home!

Pics of Nadaam--Camping in Terelj

2008-07-15T07:02:00.004-04:00

Hi all--before I get started on our little camping trip in the countryside---I first wanted to give you the link to the pics of the Naadam festival--which Terri wrote about earlier. You can see them here.

So after Naadam, we loaded up and headed out to Terelj National Park. It's relatively close to UB--but here, close is a really subjective term, mainly due to the infrastructure. Ready to stop breathing dirty city air--the six of us happily set off--accomplished driver and hardy Soviet Era Van in tow (called a Forgone) for the country.

The drive was beautiful and incredibly bumpy--just as they all have been. We had some extra adventure by crossing several rivers in the van--lifting our feet and bags to avoid any incoming water. We were following the family member of the place we were staying at -- but he was on horseback and could go places much easier than we could. Never the less, after lots of chanting and cheering on of the driver---we got to our destination--a family ger camp inside the park boundaries.

Boundaries, that's kind of a funny word here---seeing as there are (outside the city at least) none. Its strange for me--who is so used to trails, fences and velvet ropes guiding me through sites, to be allowed virtually anywhere. The family had set up shop inside the park. They had their own ger---and kept one for tourists, and also offered themselves as horse guides. We had a traditional Mongolian meal (Bowl o'meat, yogurt curd jerky, botz--a type of yummy dumpling filled with--you guessed it, meat, and vodka.) We spent the rest of the day hiking--chatting and playing scrabble.

The next day we hit the "non" trail and went horse back riding. Now, Becky was a little concerned about us going, she recently fell off of a Mongolian Horse, one of her interns fell of a horse when we first came to town and ended up going home AND we saw someone bite it when we were driving to the camp. Eleanor, Jerri, Terri and I were determined though, so Becky had a talk with the family---please go slow.

Mongolians don't do slow on horseback--at least they don't seem to like to --- the old man who was leading us kept teaching us how to say "go faster" (Choo) to our horses. We never did learn slow down or stop. It was great to be given free reign (sorry no pun intended) to guide our horses over streams, through valleys and across hills. Just knowing that, given the time and the ability, that you could go anywhere in the country was incredibly liberating.

We've settled back in UB now--couple of days for museum and souvenir shopping. We have had an incredible time. This will most likely be my last post in country---I'll do one more final thoughts, with pictures, once I get back home. For anyone that's been reading this--thanks for taking this journey with us--and please keep us in your thoughts for safe and speedy travel back home. Terlj Pics can be found here.

Take Care All.

Love,

Mel

Naadam Festival

2008-07-12T22:25:00.002-04:00

We spent the last two days attending events at the Naadam Festival, this is sort of like the Olympics for Mongolians. The event started with a wonderful opening ceremony consisting of music, traditional Mongolia dancing, colorful costumes and a parade of athletes. We attending the events known as the 'The Three Manly events'; wrestling, archery and horse racing (archery did have women competing and the horse racing had children as jockeys) for centuries these events have been used in military training. We also found ankle bone shooting which is a new event, hard to describe but very interesting to watch. The horse racing was several miles from the town and in the middle of nowhere (as is much of Mongolia). The site was fantastic miles of gers, horses, people and some vendor ger tents selling food and drink, kites everywhere the eye could see. The whole experience was as I thought it would be from start to finish.

Hey, Mel we are in Mongolia.

We are off to the countryside today to visit a nomad family and do some horseback riding, I here there is some good fly fishing in the area, but I did not bring a pole.

Happy Naadam to all.
Terri

A few UB thoughts

2008-07-10T08:08:00.003-04:00

More photos here
Hi all, Mel here. Just wanted to get a few thoughts out while the group (my travel companions Terri and Jeri, our fine friends that are putting us up, Becky and Kathy, and the recent edition of a great lady, Eleanor--Becky's first grade teacher, mentor and now lifelong friend.) are all hanging out chatting

We had quite a day of culture today. Becky was saddled with work again, leaving Kathy to run us around the city. She's a great guide and we were taken on a cultural tour of UB

The first stop was a giant Buddha statue near a memorial called Zaisan. The Buddha was gold (as most Buddhas are) and lived up to its bigness. It was a site to see, before heading to Ziasan, a soviet era memorial that was on top of a mountain (OK, large hill, but the climb up made it feel like a mountain)

Ziasan was worth the climb, the memorial commemorates the union between the soviets and the Mongolians. Mongolia is now, like Russia, a burgeoning democracy now, but this was a great reminder of a recent era. The view was incredible. Facing the city, you can see that UB is really a big sprawling city. There is tons of construction and too many cranes to count. Turn around though and you can see open land--with the exception some gers behind you.

Speaking of gers-just outside the city there are Mongolians version of the suburbs called the ger districts. Thousands of people, setting up their own streets and towns, yet still living completely off the grid, power, plumbing and water wise.

Anyway---after having a great chat and buying some art from an artist and throat singer near the top of the monument. We headed off to the Winter Palace of Bohd Khan.

The Winter palace was a huge temple/palace erected in the mid 1800's. The temple had a great mix of restored buildings and falling down structures that are currently remaining in an arrested state of decay. The artifacts inside were cool as well. The weirdest part though was the stuffed animal exhibit from the King. He liked collecting wildlife from various parts of the world and their was an whole room devoted to various old reptiles, mammals and fish that saw better days about 200 years ago.

After the palace, we fell into a great opportunity. Becky has great connections through her work and we were able to attend a pre-festival concert. We were waaaaaaaaaay under dressed, but it was worth the embarrassment. The opening was a bit slow--European type performances but with a Mongolian twist. The best was a duo who did "o solo mio" one in Italian and one in throat singing. Throat singing (and I mean this in the best possible way--because it does sound really cool) kind of sounds like your powerline is about to explode, but in a really melodic way. The remainder of the concert turned really Mongolian after that. Incredible costumes, full on traditional orchestra and amazing singing.

That's all for now---Terri or I will be back on to post about Naadam in the next day or so.

The Gobi

2008-07-10T06:44:00.005-04:00

Land as God intended, vast open areas with more animals than humans. The Gobi is spotted with gers (Mongolian Nomad tents) and herds of animals; goats, sheeps, horses and camels. I came to the conclusion, 1 or 2 gers a nomad family, 3 or more gers could be a town or a tourist camp. We stayed at three tourist ger camps in the Gobi desert each similar with several guest gers, a bathroom/shower area, eating ger with an area for gathering. Each evening the guides would bring the tourist to the camps to clean up, eat, share their stories and sleep. All the camps had electricity by generator. After a day hiking or camel riding or climbing sand dunes the tour camp was perfect and the staff very helpful and friendly.

The vastness is indescribable, the sky wide open and the stars to infinity and beyond. We would drive for miles on dirt path and see nothing, then a ger or a herd appears. But yes technology has reached the Gobi and the nomad life, satellite dishes and solar panels appear out next to gers. Less than 25% of Mongols live as nomads.

Ulaan Baatar Mongolia

2008-07-09T11:12:00.003-04:00

Ulaan Baatar Mongolia (known as UB) is the capital of Mongolia and the base camp for our 13 day stay in Mongolia. UB is a very diverse town with old buildings and alot of new construction everywhere, the streets are busy with cars and people walking all about. The town is very modern with people on their cell phones and ipods. I know everyone thinks we are roughing it but the truth be told, Kathy and Becky have a very nice 2 bedroom large apartment in the center of the city across from Sukhbaatar Square where we spent two nights. The square is the home of two status of Sukhbaatar (Axe Hero) and Chinggis Khaan (universal king), the square is used for celebrations and the building behind the square is home to the parliament. Around the square you can find just about anything; stores, government buildings, art venues and restaurants, just about any type of food you can think of, tonight we went to a Mexican/India restaurant followed by an Irish pub.

We are now house sitting for some of Kathy and Becky's friends, it's rough, 4 stories in a gated community, of yes did I mention our neighbor is the American Ambassador.

While in UB we hope to visit a few temples, a museum, attend the Naadam Festival.

That is all for tonight, will post soon.
Terri

Days 5-8 the Gobi

2008-07-09T04:45:00.003-04:00

(Hi all---again if you want to skip the post and go straight to more pics just click here)

So--after a bit of a nightmare through getting the Russian airport. Our chances of making our flight back from Moscow to New York--given the time we allowed ourselves, is looking pretty dodgy. We boarded what was perhaps the oldest functioning commercial jet to UB. But after reading the in flight magazine about MAIT's proudly making international flight standards, for the first time, in November of 2007, I settled back and watched the in flight entertainment (Tom and Jerry Cartoons and a Spice Girls Video before the movie Fool's Gold, which I have seen three times on planes in the last month) We landed in UB on the morning of the fourth, saw a few sights, which I will save for a later post, and then took of for the Gobi Desert the next day.

We spent four days in the desert--and it was amazing. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to condense so many experiences into nice readable chunks, so I'm just going to leave you with the pictures in the hyperlink above. In the meantime---the morning rain has cleared and it is now time to go out and play

Days 1 thru 3 Moscow

2008-07-08T19:37:00.008-04:00

Note from Mel---If you want to skip all my ramblings and just look at the pictures....go to the bottom of the post and click the hyperlink.

It's hard to sum up my feelings about our whirlwind peek at Moscow. It was a massive, confusing city. I've never been to a country before without knowing at least some of the language, or being around someone that does. Before our trip started I spent time learning a little bit of Mongolian, not Russian. I figured that since we were staying for such a short time, just under 30 hours in total, combine that with the fact that we were going to the super touristy Red Square and Kremlin, that we'd be able to get by .

So. Dead. Wrong.

First thing, everything was in Russian, and Russian only. I'm really not (or at least thought I wasn't) one of those "Why doesn't anyone speak English while I'm in their country" kind of people, but I had counted on some information being available at the tourist hot spots. Hell it didn't even have to be English---French, German, Japanese, anything to show that people from other part of the world came here. But nyet! In fact the only real English we did see, outside of our Marriott Courtyard Room guest services book, was hand painted on a van. It said "F@?K FUEL ECONOMY" Which brings me to my next observation, the vibe of the town....

You know how certain cities have a feel? Seattle actually feels cool. New Orleans feels alive...and a little tipsy. Moscow feels......dour. We were totally invisible there. Not a single person tried to speak with us while we were out. Really, no one would even look at us. I didn't feel necessarily disliked, but ignored. A first I thought it was because it was so obvious we weren't from there. But then I realized, no one really talks to anyone there. There was no small talk in lines, not a word exchanged on the subway platform----nothing outside of the small group that one is hanging out with. I don't think I saw anyone smile. My theory is that it's a holdover from the cold war era, you know, don't talk to anyone because you don't know who they may be sort of thing. Whatever the reason though, the only advice to people I'd want to give that are planning a trip there would be, definitely get some language under your belt, even better go with a Russian, and get out of the city : )

I'm not going to end on a low note---Red Square and the Kremlin (at least the bits we saw) were absolutely beautiful. The crazy colored St. Basil's Cathedral was a huge highlight. We were exploring inside, climbing up some insanely tall stairs, when we entered a large chamber. The timing was perfect, a Russian quartet started signing a traditional Orthodox hymn. With the height of the room, the acoustics were amazing. Combine that with the talent of the group and I can't begin to describe the beauty of the song.

Also learned on this trip that Terri's talent to annoy local law enforcement extends beyond the borders of the USA. We were heading down into Lenin's tomb. To see Lenin. A guy who has been laying embalmed under glass since 1924 against his wishes (he wanted to be buried with his Mama at St. Petersburg). After security, bag check and a bit of a wait in line, we entered the tomb which was unbelievably dark. Black walls, black floors, black stairs, dim lights. As we descended we were all having a harder time seeing---I reach out for Terri's hand, so we could steady each other. Terri let out one small nervous laugh. And then that's when she was SHHHHH'd by one of the Military guards at the tomb. The shhhh worked, hell, I think we all stopped breathing until we left place, Oh and for those that want to know---Lenin looks OK for a dead guy that's been sitting under glass for over 80 years, all things considered.....creepy but OK.
If you want to check out any more pictures from Russia. Check out the album on my picasa page by clicking here.

Back in Ulaanbatar--time for some writing!

2008-07-08T19:29:00.003-04:00

Its (Wednesday?) morning and I find myself at a computer after 4 days of being in the Gobi Desert. It's quiet in the in our friends' apartment, but I can hear the ever present sound of honking horns in the city outside. The emergency ban was lifted from the city while we were in the desert, and Ulaanbatar (UB) is back to its normal bustling, honking, if you can't find a lane make one, self.

Since we've have a tone of adventures, I'm going to spread the information out, with some pictures, over a few posts. Hope you all enjoy!.

Arrived in Mongolia

2008-07-03T21:01:00.003-04:00

Terri, Jeri and I will post a bit more information about the rest of our whirlwind Moscow Adventure, but before doing that, I wanted to let you know that we have safely arrived in Mongolia. For anyone that might have caught CNN or BBC in the past few days though, you may have heard of some trouble here as a result of the recent elections.
Eariler this week, elections took place and the results weren't well received by all. Protesters, fueled by alcohol and a bit of a mob mentality, looted and burned a few buildings. As a result, the capitol is currently under a state of emergency. There are no liquor sales and a strict curfew is in effect from 10 pm to 8 am in the morning. Police and armed forces are patrolling the areas to ensure the peace is kept.

As far as we can tell, things have now calmed down. Our friend Becky, who works pretty closely with politicians as part of her job, thinks that once the state of emergency is lifted in the next few days that things will be pretty much back to normal. Even better, Terri, Jeri and I are headed to the Gobi tomorrow....where we will be out in the in the country and away from any potential problems as the ban is lifted. As of now, we feel perfectly safe hanging out with friends Becky and Kathy, where I am sipping coffee while typing this to you at an Internet cafe.

That's it for now---I'll back track in a bit and get a pic or two up of Moscow....as well as a brief update of our synopsis our adventure. Just wanted to get a this news out first.

In Moscow

2008-07-02T10:41:00.003-04:00

Hi All,

Wanted to dash a quick note and let everyone know that we arrived safely in Moscow this morning. Spent the day looking around town and checking out Red Square....Bad planning on our part though, as we just found out the Kremlin is closed on Thursdays. So, we will exchange seeing faberege eggs for embalmed dictators instead. Heading to Lenin's tomb and then off to a convent where Peter the Great stashed his unruly female relatives if time permits. Then its off to Mongolia. Can't post any pics now since I'm on the hotel computer and EVERYTHING in Moscow comes with a price (Having to pay to use a portable toilet, really?) Will check in again soon!

5 Essential Mongolian words

2008-06-23T20:38:00.008-04:00

The following is a list of words I've retained (to date) from my "Talk Now! Mongolian" CD

Hello
Water
Beer
Yes
Toothpaste

Once I master: Goodbye, Sorry, Thank You, Toilet, and toothbrush (why not) I think I'll be good to go.

On a side note--I'd like to take a moment to thank the "Talk Now! Mongolian" people for putting out this DVD. I especially appreciate how easily it downloaded off my iPod. I found some of your word choice a bit strange however---maybe in the next edition you can admit some of the following categories.....

Fruit (I've heard there isn't much of it there--I just can't imagine needing to learn the word raspberry and mango) According to the travel guides, food words I should be learning include, noodles, mutton, yogurt and, if I'm daring, marmot.

Nautical terms (Your a landlocked country, and only have 2 rivers with ferry's. Do I need to memorize the word, ship or the phrase "Where is the beach?"

Time I would have preferred more handy phrases to "I fell off my (Horse, Camel, Yak)" to the detailed section on telling time. I understand that knowing 1 o'clock and 4:30 would be helpful---but quarter past and twenty til? Not so much.

The Final Countdown--Part I

2008-06-22T08:29:00.002-04:00

As I am writing this post--we are just 9 days away from leaving! I still have odds and ends to buy, but the planning, for the most part is done! The scariest thing at this point is the to do list that seems to be getting longer---not shorter for work. So--I am taking a few moments to focus on the trip and all those above mentioned odds and ends because I am expecting my week to be a work nightmare of last minute things to do.....

Packing Light

2008-05-07T21:09:00.003-04:00

This answers our baggage question! Direct from the MIAT website:

"Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage should be limited lo one piece such as can he placed beneath the seat, or in the overhead baggage compartment and must not weigh more than 5 kg. the dimensions of carry on baggage should not exceed an overall linear of 11E cm. Also each side should not exceed 55cm x 35cm x 25cm, Including any baggage attachments such as handles, wheels, etc. Personal belongings such as cameras, glasses, etc. may also be carried on in addition to the above limitation.

Free baggage allowance Business Class: Total weight of checked baggage up to 30 kg in all international flights. Economy Class: Total weight of checked baggage up to 20 kg in all international flights and up to 10 kg in all domestic flights. Advance contacts and arrangements with MIAT are required for bulky baggage exceeding 35 kg in weight or 156 cm in three dimensions per one piece. Baggage exceeding free allowance may be carried if excess baggage charges are paid."

So if my metric to poundage is right that give us 44 pounds. I think the reason for this might be the following. This is the image I got when I clicked the "Airplane's History" link on the MIAT website!

I'll take the Togrog over the Rouble any day!

2008-03-28T12:53:00.007-04:00

Ok, Terri is in charge of our Russian overnight stay, and I am looking for a home base for us in Ulaanbaatar for all of our comings and goings in Mongolia. The goal here is to give ourselves an equal to or less than budget for the 13 nights of Capitol city lodging in Mongolia than what we are being forced to pay for 1 night in Moscow. Translation-----Mongolia cheap, Moscow, expensive!

Tickets purchased - Whats next

2008-03-06T22:21:00.005-05:00

After several delays of passport issues and a seach for the right price on airfare we have purchased our airline tickets. Flying Delta roundtrip New York to Russia then Mongolia Airline roundtrip Russia to Mongolia. The only problem I see is I am ready to travel now and we still have 3 and half months until our departure date, July 1st.

We have also locate one more adventureous soul, her name is Jeri, she lives in New Mexico, she says she is ready to travel. I met Jeri while I was living in New Mexico a few years back and our friendship has weather several trips, some bad life experiences and many good times.

So what's next - lodging for three ladies. We will stay in Moscow for two nights and three days, then we will have 12 nights in various locations in Mongolia, we would like to keep the schedule open for changes but have options lined up. I have a co-worker from Russia who will advise me on nice hotels in Moscow, and will relay on the friends in Mongolia to suggest locations in there.

Ticket Troubles

2008-02-25T20:42:00.002-05:00

Terri and I have been in a ticket holding pattern since our vacation requests were approved. If you ever find yourself trying to book a ticket to Mongolia via Russia, expect a hurdle or two. Here are just a few we faced:

Kayak is GREAT for domestic flights, but can't automatically check and link you to airlines quoted price for more obscure airlines/flights
Aeroflot (which sounds way to much like AeroFLAT for my flight phobia self) charges double when you try and book your Russia and Mongolia tickets together. This makes me a bit nervous about booking them separate will we actually get on both planes?
There is a general anxiety about using you Step-mom's credit card for such a big ticket item, I keep having these bad dreams that all the prices I have been quoting are only one way, in a different currency, only good for seats OUTSIDE the plane, etc....
No one will let us book without out passport numbers already on hand. I understand that countries will need them before we leave, but you'd think that they would be comfortable taking our money at any time....

Regardless, Terri and I have a booking date tomorrow and (hopefully) tickets will become a reality.

Are there actually lands without McDonalds?

2008-01-29T12:26:00.000-05:00

Someone at work was shocked to hear that there were actually countries that were McDonalds free. He was certain no place left on earth was unscathed from the wrath of the Golden Arches or the familiar green and white Starbuck's cup. And although, depending on the source, McDonalds are found in anywhere from 97 to 117 countries, there are currently 97 independent states that are McDonalds free:

Afghanistan, Albania, Algeria, Angola, Antigua and Barbuda, Armenia, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belize, Benin, Bhutan, Bolivia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Burkina Faso, Burma, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Comoros, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Côte d'Ivoire, Djibouti, Dominica, East Timor, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Ethiopia, the Federated States of Micronesia, Gabon, Gambia, the Ghana, Grenada, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Guyana, Haiti, the Holy See, Iran, Iraq, Jamaica, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Kiribati, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lesotho, Liberia, Libya, Madagascar, Malawi, Maldives, Mali, the Marshall Islands, Mauritania, Mongolia, Montenegro, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, Niger, Nigeria, North Korea, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Rwanda, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Sao Tome and Principe, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, Somalia, Sudan, Swaziland, Syria, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Togo, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tunisia, Turkmenistan, Tuvalu, Uganda, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Vietnam, Yemen, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

Just for the record, I don't really have anything against the Golden Arches. I think friends of mine have valid points about the fast food giant's impact on globalization, the environment, developing nations, peoples waistlines etc....None of this would stop me though, from kicking any unfortunate toddlers out of line who happen be ahead of me the that magical day McDonalds comes to its cooperate senses and brings back the Shamrock shake.

That being said, there is something seemingly untouched about a McDonald-less land that makes it all the more appealing.....

Mel's stolen sample itineraries

2008-01-27T21:33:00.000-05:00

First of all, I would like to say that for someone that says they are not technologically savvy, you sure started adding posts quick Terri! Thanks for the packing lists. Have you narrowed down the pack that your going to buy to put all that stuff into yet? If not, I found an article for you on how to choose one.

I've also done a bit of searching and found a few sample itineraries from travel companies. There links are on the left. I've made a mock up itinerary based on the the ones that I (hope) cover everything we want to see, while allowing some time for the inevitable delays, side trips, and unexpected adventures. Dates are just for examples and we can keep playing with them as needed.

July 1-2 JFK to Moscow (arrive 7/2 @ 12:20 PM)

July 3 Moscow (see Kremlin, embalmed communist, the onion dome thingy etc....)

July 4 Moscow (celebrate Independence Day by telling anyone we are Canadian to avoid dirty looks and comments about current president.) Take Red-eye to Ulaanbaatar @ 8:35 pm

July 5 Ulaanbaatar (arriving @6:15 am) general gawking, veg and regroup day?

July 6-9 Head to the Gobi Desert, play in the sand, ride Camels, sled down dunes, head back toUlaan Bataar (jeep there, fly back or visa-versa)

July 10 Around Ulaanbaatar (or extra day for Gobi)

July 11-12 Naadaam Festival! (Enjoy three manly games and new 4th game, anklebone throwing!)

July 13-15--Day trips in central Mongolia or Khovgol National Park (Mountain/lake area near the Siberian boarder -- we can swing this if we fly)

July 16th back to Russia arrive at 10:30 am (time is on our side for the way back) we can continue on and fly home (arrive in JFK at 4:20 pm ) or stay overnight and

July 17th fly from Moscow at 2:20 pm and through the magic of flying against the time zones arrive at JFK at 4:20 pm)

Whew!!!! I'm wiped just looking at it!

Mongolia Packing list

2008-01-27T10:57:00.000-05:00

MONGOLIA PACKING LIST

I have started a packing list, and in my usually style I started a box of items to bring, I have started to purchase small items such as a good flash light, bio soap, travel size necessities, and I gathered the things I already had and added to my box.

Here are some of the items suggested by my travel book

pouch for documents/cash
flash light
first aid kit
extra batteries
eye drops
bio friendly soap
moisturizer
large zip lock for wet clothes
sun block
light binoculars
insect repellent
lip balm
rain poncho
water bottle/water purifying tablets
multi-seasoning pack to spice up food
light weight sleeping bag
universal plug 220V(I have one)
tent
dry bag
inflatable pillow
lighter

Nadaam Festival

2008-01-27T10:47:00.000-05:00

Here is the sample Festival itinerary I found

11th of July
9 AM: Breakfast at Chez Bernard Cafe
10 AM: Walk to the stadium
11 AM: Inauguration speech from the ¨President of Mongolia, and start of wrestling.
1 PM: BBQ
2 PM: Archery
Late afternoon, you can try Archery your self.
12th of July
7 AM: Meeting at Chez Bernard and departure for the horse racing. We will drive 37 km out of Ulaanbaatar
1 PM: BBQ
3 PM: Drive back to Ulaanbaatar
4 PM: Closing ceremony at the stadium.

Time Off Request Approved!

2008-01-26T13:02:00.001-05:00

It came in yesterday Terri! I'm good with an arrival and a departure anytime between June 30th and July 17th! Sample itineraries to come soon!

Mongolia--Getting There and Away

2008-01-26T11:40:00.001-05:00

"Getting there and away": the first of many rip-offs from my Lonely Planet Guide on Mongolia. I also picked up the Trans-Siberian Railway Guide while I was at it, since I've always had this Dr. Zhivago-like fantasy of riding the rails through Siberia into the land of Genghis Khan. (Mind you, I don't think that Dr. Zhivago actually ever did this, since I've never read the book and the 2nd part of the BBC mini series is still on top of the computer in its cozy little netflix envelope, but in my mind, I like to think he did) Terri points out that time keeps us from making the trek from Moscow to Ulaanbaatar via rail (4-5 days if there are no problems) but does like the Russia idea, so its time to start searching flights.....

At the risk of sounding simple-minded, I just first need to point out that Mongolia is really, really far way. Seriously, grab a globe, put your finger on Savannah, and then go up and around that bad boy until you hit Ulaanbaatar. Pretty much the exact opposite side. Well, at least I'll be in the same hemisphere.

So, in spite of the distance, I start to plan two potential routes. Thankfully the little search engine at kayak.com has been doing most of the research for me. I know that New York (JFK) and Atlanta (ATL) are going to be the places to leave and return from and that a straight shot into Mongolia (ULN) or having a 2 day pit stop in Moscow (SVO) are going to be the best options for us. (Flying to Beijing is also an option, but Terri would much rather see Russia and leaving Phil behind to go to Mongolia is bad enough, making a side trip into China would just be cruel)

After running some dates and times, I discover a few thing that I'm pretty sure I should have instinctively known without preliminary research:

1.) Mongolia is really, really, really, far away. (I know I mentioned this before, but have added an extra "really" to illustrate my new understanding of just how far it is)
2.) We will have to sit on a plane for a long time to get there (the "direct" route from ATL to ULN, with only one stop in Korea takes 3 fricking days!)
3.) A red-eye from Moscow is the only way to get into Mongolia. This make me wonder, what is it they don't want us to see?

So, after my research, search engines and spreadsheets, Terri and I come to two conclusions:

1.) via Moscow it is!
2.) uhh, we need to ask our respective places of employment for more time off......

The go ahead--(to sum up)

2008-01-22T15:15:00.000-05:00

Ok, first of all I never thought that this trip would actually happen. When I first told Terri that my friends Becky and Kathy were moving there for work (Becky working as an environmental guru for the Asia foundation and Kathy as a teacher of all things Math and Science) I thought Terri would read the email, think "cool, always wanted to go there" and then delete it and get on with her day.

I really should have known better............

So when she called a few days after and started talking dates, I had to tell her that there was no way I could afford to get over there. Phil and I had just bought a house, he's going to a very cool but very pricey art school and even though Mongolia might be cheaper than say, London or Paris, the airfare was never going to show up on price line as a $399 round trip deal.

OK, Terri has always crushed all the evil step-mom stereotypes. She went above and beyond though when she called a few weeks later and said "You plan for it, I'll pay for it!" We started our preliminary plans, when can we go (summer) can Phil come with us (no, school and work) would anybody else want to come (most people laugh but Jeri says maybe). I ordered my Lonely Planet guides since the bookstores in Savannah apparently don't stock Travel guides for Mongolia (India, Italy, Japan, Korea,Mexico, Morocco, Netherlands etc...) Let the planning begin!

Lands without McDonalds--the reason.

2008-01-06T12:00:00.000-05:00

My Step-mom and I are both big travellers. The more remote, off the wall and random, the better. So when two very good friends of mine found themselves headed to Mongolia for work, Terri and I saw it as a perfect opportunity to visit a country that we both have always wanted to see. This blog is going to serve as a virtual trip planner for the two of us and then morph into a travel blog once we are actually, uhhh traveling, which looks to be sometime in July.